FAQ's

How to Choose the Right Wheels for you
 

1. Why Aero Wheels?
 
2.  Why Lightweight Wheels?

3. Is it more important to have aero wheels or light wheels?


4. Our Hand-Built Wheels & Hand Finished Factory Built Wheels

5. So Which Wheels Do I Need?
 
6. Spares
 
7. Maximum Rider Weights
 
8. Shimano /Sram/Campagnolo Freehubs And Converting Freehubs
 
9. Non Standard Wheels And Uci Regulations



K1 WHEEL OWNERS MANUAL (Emailed to each customer)
 
10. Setting Your Wheels Up For The First Time:  Should I Work On My Own Wheels, Fitting Tyres, Setting Brake Blocks  Etc
 
11.  Essential Routine Checks Of Your Wheels
 
12.  Care And Servicing Of Wheels
 
13.  A Guide To Safe Riding
 
14. Fitting Clincher, Tyres, Tapes Etc - AND NOTES ON TUBELESS AND TUBULAR TYRES
 
15. Installing And Operating A Quick-Release
 
16. Using Valve Extenders
 
 


 1. Why Aero Wheels?


The faster you go the more aerodynamics kicks in. It’s a scary cubic relationship. (well the maths gets scary!)
 
In the most straightforward terms: As you get faster – the Power required to overcome aerodynamic drag increases in a cubic relationship with the velocity.
 
What this means in practice (take it as read that there are all sorts of other variables and conditions, denoted by Greek letters - which complicate things a bit more - but we will stick to the fundamentals here!) is that as you go faster and faster in order to double your speed, you need eight times the Power - (that being 2 cubed). In layman's terms this is best explained as: You have to overcome ever more drag as you speed up.
 
An example graph of a cyclist in the real world shows this nicely -  it takes him 100watts of power to reach 15mph – but 600 watts to go twice as fast. (ok this is 6x not 8x the power - the difference is due to those other factors mentioned above!)
 

 
Now, as all of us have limited leg power available to us – even Froome – and we very quickly reach the point where we simply cannot generate any more. And even if we could produce another watt or two through training better, it would  (given that damned cubic effect), have such a small impact on our speed anyway as we are stuck firmly on the very steep part of the curve on the above graph!
 
But, there is some good news!  Whilst we can do little to increase our power - what we can do is to reduce the drag that we are creating – and that’s where aero rims and spokes come in!
 
To see how much difference aero wheels make – It’s possible to describe how many watts certain types of wheels can save you compared to others. The results of one study can be seen at: http://www.rouesartisanales.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/aero_english.jpg

Remember – with good aero wheels you’re saving watts from being absorbed as drag – this is like magic! It’s as if you’ve suddenly got 10 or 20 more watts of power in your legs! Magic………
  
Or see some of the aero work we've been involved in recently : https://teamkineticone.wordpress.com/2017/04/26/kinetic-ones-ben-price-gets-aero-in-the-velodrome-and-finds-out-that-the-new-k1-80cs-are-pretty-damn-fast-2/
 
Naturally we go for the most cost-effective types of rims and spokes that score best on the aerodynamic front. Some aero wheels cost as much as £5000 - And whilst they can rightly claim to be the most aero wheels going – we feel that our best achievement and our continuing mission is to make wheels which give maximum aero benefits …. Without the need to sell your house to get them! 
 


 
2. Why lightweight wheels?
 

It is of course not just about aerodynamics – other real world factors are at work. Not least of all that gravity thing. Whilst it’s quite good at enabling life on earth – it does get in the way of cycling a bit too much.
 
Some more schoolboy physics. On the flat and in constant conditions and at constant speed – a change in weight has no significant impact on your speed.  Again a few simplifications here but that’s the broad picture.  Thanks Isaac Newton for that one. (his 1st law of motion.)
 
However, that’s only the case when no external force is applied to the isolated bike/rider system. Whilst it holds true on the flat and in steady conditions …. The moment you accelerate or start going up a hill it’s all change.
 
For most cyclists (except perhaps criterium racers) acceleration is far less important than the climbs. At the moment we start to go uphill the change in the force due to gravity does its worst and suddenly things break down. Riders understand this in a less academic way: basically It hurts and we start to slow down .. lots.
 
That’s where weight savings help us. The force due to gravity is directly proportional to the mass of the bike/rider. Reduce the mass of this and you reduce the force that is working against us when we are riding the diagonal bits.
 
Saving weight on wheels is often the easiest place to save weight on the bike/rider system. That and eating less pies. Joking aside it’s a serious saving – I mean Wheels weights - not pies.
 
Delving into the physics again - there’s also another key issue relating to wheels that confronts us. As we ride - the wheel doesn’t just go from A to B – it spins round very fast as it does so. To get the wheel spinning requires the overcoming of rotational inertia and this takes energy to enact. Again this rotational inertia (just like with linear inertia) is reduced by reducing the weight of the wheel especially at the rim.
 
Taken together the result is a double benefit on saving weight on your wheels. Lighter wheels are less weight to carry up the hill (as well as when accelerating) and they are also less energy costly to get spinning than heavier wheels – the old boys are broadly right when they tell us sagely: “a pound saved on your wheels is worth two pounds saved anywhere else on the bike.” 
 
Remember however that this is only true on the hills and in acceleration. As we saw above, at constant speed on the flats any weight saving is almost irrelevant and aerodynamic saving is king.


Here’s a fantastic example of this: based on the great information located  at  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance

 
 


The benefits of weight saving on a hill: Losing 1 kg on a 7% grade would be worth up to 0.07 m/s (for a 90 kg bike + rider).

If you climbed for 1 hour at constant speed, saving 1kg would enable you to cover 252 metres more distance in the same time with the same energy expended.!
 
Vs.
 
The benefits of weight saving on the flat: Shaving 1 kg off the weight of the bike/rider would save 0.01 m/s at 9 m/s on the flats (1 second in a 25 mph (40 km/h), 25-mile (40 km) TT).

So by saving 1kg on the flat you would only cover 36 metres more distance in the same time with the same energy expended.!

 
 
As a reminder: On the flat and as this sort of speed – Aerodynamic improvements would be massively more significant and for most people enable  a far far greater saving than this 1 second gain!.

 



3 - What is More important: Saving weight in your wheels - Or getting aero wheels?

 In fact when you step back and think about all this - perhaps the most surprising thing of all in terms of the relative importance of weight saving vs aero saving on wheels is just how much AERO FACTORS DWARF WEIGHT SAVING FACTORS. Its worth saying this again as the supposed importance of weight-saving is one of the obsessive sacred cows of the road cycling world! 

In all but the steepest and longest climbs aerodynamic gains are far far more important than saving weight on wheels.

In fact in the example above if you save 1 pound (1/2 Kilo)  in weight on a 7% climb that takes an hour to complete  (and that's a monster climb to most of us - and there aren't really any of these in the UK)  you will only have gained 100 metres in an hours tough riding.  Not as much as you might think   .... and certainly not as much as the weight obsessed roadie would tell you!  

It really is only on legendarily tough climbs like that of Alpe D'Huez that low weight is more important than maximising aero gains! As the following fascinating article illustrates:

http://flocycling.blogspot.fr/2014/01/flo-cycling-great-debate-aero-vs-weight.html?m=1
  
So the upshot is pretty clear really - go for aero first and then go lighter the more hilly your riding is. Only if you are a mountain goat do you benefit from putting weight before aero considerations. For the rest of us by far the biggest gains on the vast majority of terrains come from getting aero!
 
 


 
4. Our Hand-built wheels & Hand Finished Factory built wheels

Our higher end wheels are hand made with each and every component being individually assembled by hand and then: pre-stressed, seated and tensioned. This ensures that the wheel is radially and laterally true from the outset and performs to the highest level.
 
Our entry level K1-33 DUO and K1-33 RAD wheels are factory built wheels. This means that they are laced up on assembly line to our specification. However, unlike virtually all other common factory built wheels - each and every K1 wheel is hand trued, pre-stressed  and hand tensioned to ensure that it is radially and laterally true from the moment you receive it and that it stays true. Building wheels in this way keeps production costs down without compromising on quality so you get the best performing wheels at the best price.

 
 



5. So which wheels do I need?
 
So choose your wheels according to your type of riding. Balancing aero and weight considerations, as well as other factors such as wheel strength and of course price.  We've just added a useful little tool to each product listing: The "K1 Intended Use" guide ranks each wheelset according to its designated riding characteristics. Broadly speaking the main criteria to help you choose are:
 
Flat and fast  TT’s and Tri’s:  Go for aero wheels – Wheel weight not an issue
 
Flat and turny Criteriums and Tri’s;  Go for aero and light
 
Hilly TT’s Go for aero and light
 
Sportives and audaxes – Go for aero and light - focus on weight massively .... only if its super steep throughout!

 



6. Spares
 
We carry spare spokes, bearings, freehub bodies, decals, rims  for all our wheelsets.

 
 



7. Maximum rider weights and our TOUGH Wheels
 
We don't formally specify a maximum rider weight with our wheels (along with a growing number of major brands - as in practice its not really a valid measurement and does not take into account that different riders are harder on their wheels than others!) 

For this reason we suggest rider weights as it does help our customers make the right choices for them.
 
Every wheel from every manufacturer has limits but it is more than just weight. It also involves riding style and road conditions in your area. Some wheels are built for ultra-lightweight  and some are built to be a bit stiffer.
 
In fact, there are 6 elements that make a wheel stiff and hence round and true under load: Rim depth / rim strength / number of spokes / bracing angle / spoke gauge / lacing pattern. The decision to maximise the stiffness of each of these elements was the simple logic behind our Tough wheels. That and using very strong components that don't add surplus weight.

If you're a heavier rider or you tend to stand and throw the bike around, you should probably look for a wheel with increased stiffness and even steel axles. (Our "K1-42A TOUGH" wheels being our strongest).
 
In practice we’ve routinely had 95 kg plus riders on all of our wheels without any issues.
 
As a general rule of thumb our recommendation is that the spoke count for carbon wheels should be at least 20 front / 24 rear for riders over 190 lbs / 86kg. (This is broadly the same as for the other more forward thinking brands such as Reynolds). The only exception to this would be our 16/20 spoked K1-42S Duo wheels, (which aside from the K142A Tough's mentioned above) are by far our toughest wheelset..



8. Shimano /SRAM/Campagnolo freehubs and converting freehubs
 
Most of our wheels can be converted from SHIMANO/SRAM to CAMPAG and vice versa simply by switching the freehub body over. Sometimes a redishing of the wheel may be needed.



9. Non Standard Wheels And Uci Regulations
 

Most kinetic-One wheels are by default, UCI compliant – where this is not the case – Specifically where we use deeps section rims – our wheels meet the standards for  UCI Non-standard wheels in conformity with article 1.3.018. See:

http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/51/87/Non-standardwheelsinconformitywithArticle1.3.018_English.pdf

If you need assistance with identifying your wheels for UCI purposes (extremely unlikely by the way as weve never yet been asked!) just give us a shout and we are happy to help.

 

 



10. Setting your wheels up for the first time:  Should I work on my own wheels, fitting tyres, setting brake blocks  etc
 
Assembly and parts installation, including tyres and correct installation of parts, is critical to performance and safety. If you are not familiar with installation procedures, have your shop or dealer do this work. Or you can of course get us to do it – we offer tyre and rim tape and cassette installation options when you place your order.
 
Special tools and skills are necessary for the assembly and the first adjustment of your wheelset. Consider having your dealer assemble the wheels and install them into your bike.  If you prefer to do this work yourself, make sure you understand and are competent to do so. Contact us if in doubt!
 
The following elements must all be carried out correctly – Some of these are more straightforward than others and do not require specialist tools and/or knowledge. Others require special tools and knowledge.

Fitting Rim Tapes

Fitting Tyres and Inner tubes
Fitting a Cassette
Fitting a Quick Release Skewer
Ensuring your brake blocks are set correctly to the wheel braking surface
Setting Gear Mech End Stops 

The more straightforward (though still very important) elements are described in more detail at the end of this page. Some elements such as fitting a cassette and checking and setting the gear mech end stop position require more rigorous knowledge and are not described here.
 
In any case if you are not certain you can carry out each element safely we suggest a visit to your bike shop. Be sure and be safe.
 

 
 



11.  Essential Routine Checks Of Your Wheels
 
You can stop trouble before it occurs by examining your wheels regularly. If a wheel is not in satisfactory condition, the power of the brakes and the strength of the wheel can be greatly decreased. If you change tyres or tubes, make sure an approved rim strip is in the correct location to avoid puncture or sudden air loss.
 
A) Before Each Ride
Make sure your wheels are correctly attached to your bicycle. For instructions on how to use wheel quick-releases, see below.  Make sure your tyres are inflated
to the pressure shown on the sidewall of the tyre. However, never inflate a tyre on a carbon clincher road rim to a pressure higher than 120 psi (8,3 ATM) Use a gauge and a bicycle pump when possible.
 
Examine your tyres for wear and other damage. Replace the tyre if you can see the inner tube through any cuts or separations which go through the tyre. If you can see a part of the tyre casing through the tyre tread (contact surface) or if tyre knobs are worn or are not there, replace the tyre. Make sure the wheels are straight and circular. Turn the rim. If the rim moves up-and down or side-to-side, have your dealer repair the wheel. Make sure your rims are clean. Dirty or greasy rims make your brakes less powerful. Clean your rims with a clean rag, or clean them with soap and water, rinse, and let them air dry.
 
NOTICE: Do not fill your tyres at gas stations because gas stations use compressors. A compressor releases pressure and volume very fast, so it could explode your tyre.
 
B) Each Week
Make sure there are no loose, bent, worn, or broken spokes. If the spokes are not in good condition, have your dealer repair your wheels.
 
C) Each Month

 

Examine your rims for wear. Some rims have marks on the brake surface that show wear.

Some Aluminum rims have a continuous indented band or several small spherical” dents” at regular distances around the brake surface. If the marks are worn or are not there, have your dealer replace the rim.

Carbon fiber rims have a layer of scrim, a woven material, on the brake surface of the rim. Under the scrim layer, the carbon fibers are straight and parallel. If you can see straight fibers showing through the scrim layer, have your dealer replace the rim.

Make sure the bearings of the wheels are correctly adjusted. Lift the front wheel of the bicycle off the ground with one hand and try to move the rim laterally, left to right. Look, feel, and listen for loose bearings. Turn the wheel and listen for grinding or other noise. For the rear wheel, do these procedures again. If a bearing feels loose or makes noise, have your dealer adjust the bearings


D) Every 100 Hours of Use

Have your hubs serviced by an authorized Shop or  dealer after every 100 hours or 6 months of use. More frequent service may be required for wheels under heavy usage.


E) IMPORTANT CHECKS FOR SPECIFIC TYPES OF WHEEL

  1. Using Tubular (sew-up) Wheels

Regularly examine your tubular tyres and keep them in good condition. Examine the casing and tread of the tyre for cuts or tears to the tubular casing. Make sure the base tape does not have cuts or tears. Most important, make sure the tyre is correctly installed.

Clean tyres with a weak, soapy solution. Do not use cleaners that contain hydrocarbons, dilutants, or corrosives. Store tubular tyres, on or off a rim, in a dry location, away from light, and inflated to 70-90 psi (5-6 bar).

  1. Using Track (fixed-gear) Wheels

With a fixed-gear bicycle, the rider controls his or her speed by resisting the motion of the pedals with their legs. This requires additional strength, skill, and reflexes. Until you have mastered the fixed-gear technique, do not ride your fixed-gear bicycle without hand brakes. Even after you have mastered this skill, do not ride a fixed-gear bicycle on public roads or paths unless your bicycle has hand-operated caliper brakes; riding without brakes is only suitable for a velodrome or a special bicycle track. Riding without hand brakes on public roads may be illegal.

  1. FULL CARBON CLINCHER/ TUBELESS WHEELS

Carbon wheels are the ultimate road bike performance enhancement but there are a few things you need to know. You will have seen on our web-page at point of order that we do not recommend any full carbon clincher wheels be used for alpine style very long descents.  

A growing number of overseas Sportives/Triathlons are not allowing the use of full carbon clinchers in their events either.  Don’t worry:  for most UK descents they are fine except for very long ones on really hot days!

Why?

All carbon rims with rim brakes are prone to heating on such descents – especially when used by inexperienced cyclists who often “ride the brakes” on descents.

In extreme cases the rims can heat to an extent where inner tubes will overheat and blowout. Not good on a fast descent of course!

If you choose to use full carbon wheels for long hot descents please ensure you set the brake blocks as low as you can on the brake track (to aid heat transfer) See Image below - and DO learn proper braking technique: that is to say brake “harder and shorter”, rather than keeping the brakes partially engaged all the time. Google “proper braking technique”. It’s great to know how to descend safely anyway!

 

What are my alternatives?

If your wheels are tubeless compatible and as such can be ridden tubeless on longer descents far more effectively. This is because tubeless tyres do not have inner tubes and moreover are ridden at lower pressures than clinchers. Both these factors offer significant benefits. Good braking technique is of course still massively important as you still do not want overheating rims! Overheated rims can literally melt/glaze brake blocks which reduces braking power considerably. If  you wish to try tubeless - you will need special rim tapes etc.


 



12.  Care and Servicing of wheels
 
Wheels are not indestructible. As with anything mechanical, every part of a wheel has a limited useful life due to wear, stress, and fatigue. Fatigue is a low stress force that, when repeated over a large number of cycles, can cause a material to crack or break. If you ride hard or aggressively, you must replace the wheel and/or its parts more frequently than riders who ride gently or carefully.
 
Several factors can change the condition of your wheels: weight, speed,
skill, terrain, maintenance, environment (humidity, salinity, temperature, and more). Because there are many variables, it is not possible to give an accurate timetable for replacement.
 
To be safe, replace the wheel or parts more frequently. If you are not sure, speak to your dealer. Light-weight, high-performance wheels and parts require better care and more frequent inspections even though in some cases they have a longer life than heavier ones.
 
A) Rim wear
 
All road bike wheels that use rim brakes are subject to wear. Every rider should know this and it is not always clear with some manufacturers!
 
Most Kinetic-One wheels have rim wear strips – visible grooved lines on the braking surface that disappear as the rim wears – when the grooved line is no longer visible and the groove cannot be felt with the finger tip then the rim must be replaced.
 
Some Kinetic-One wheels such as the ultra lightweight and high performance wheels do not have a wear line – regular checking and servicing of the wheels by a qualified mechanic is thus essential.
 
 
 
B). Bearing wear
 
All Kinetic-One wheels (except some very early models) use sealed bearing units. These are sealed for life and must be replaced as a unit. This is a skilled task and only competent home mechanics should attempt this. We stock replacement bearings for our wheels.
 
C). Spokes: Tensions / replacement etc
 
All Kinetic-One wheels are hand tensioned prior to leaving our workshop. Each wheelset has a range of acceptable tensions (available on request.)
 
Whilst uncommon with our wheels it is of course not unheard of for the occasional spoke to pop. This is more likely with heavier riders and with those riding on rough or potholed terrain.
 
In the event of a spoke or nipple going we look after our customers and stock replacement parts for all our wheelsets.
 
Should a spoke go we also offer a repair and replacement service – where you can simply send your wheel back to us and we can replace the spoke and send it back. You simply cover the cost of the shipping and we charge a flat rate £10.
 
Should you need to go to a bike shop for a repair we would suggest going only to a reputable road bike shop which has skilled mechanics with experience of wheel building. Sadly we have come across poor repairs on a growing number of occasions and invariably this is due to lack of knowledge and skill on the part of the person at the shop attempting the repair.
 
All wheels and especially paired spoked wheels such as our K1’s or K1-40S wheels require careful truing to specific tensions in order to perform safely and at their best.
WE WOULD RATHER REPAIR YOUR WHEELS THAN SEE YOU HAVE TO TRUST THEM TO A BIKE SHOP THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW.


If I break a spoke on a ride, can I ride home?
Yes. In most cases by opening your brake pads you can ride home or to a bike shop for repair.

If I break a spoke, does it have to be replaced with the exact same type of spoke?
We recommend replacing a broken spoke with a Kinetic-One spoke (available on our website). However in an emergency, a standard bladed J-bend spoke of the right length can be used temporarily.

 
 
 



13  A guide to Safe Riding
 
Most of this is obvious but we want people to be safe out there!
.
Use Common Sense When You Ride
Many cycling accidents could be avoided by using common sense. Here are a few examples:
++Do not ride with ‘no hands.’
++Do not ‘ride double.’
++Do not ride with loose objects attached to the handlebar or any other part of the bicycle.
++Avoid objects that might get into the spokes.
++Do not ride while intoxicated or while using medications that might make you drowsy.
++For road bicycles, ride only on paved surfaces.
++When approaching a descent, reduce speed, keep your weight back and low, and use the rear brake more than the front.
++Do not ride in an aggressive manner.
 
Avoid Riding Too Fast
Higher speeds create higher risks and greater forces in the event of a crash. At higher speeds, it is more likely that wheels will slip or that a small bump can create a significant impact to your frame, fork, or wheels. Keep your bicycle under control, at a reasonable speed, at all times.
 
Watch for Cars, Pedestrians, and Other Obstacles
A bicycle rider is hard to see, and many drivers do not know the rights and special considerations of a bicycle rider. Ride defensively; watch for cars, pedestrians, and other trail users.
 
Be prepared for all situations. Watch for and avoid potholes, drain grates, soft or low shoulders, and other deviations which could impact your wheels or cause them to slip. If you are not sure of riding surface conditions, walk your bike.
 
Do Not Make Changes to the Wheelset
If you make a change to the wheelset, you will void the manufacturer’s warranty. Also, this is not safe.
 
Do not install parts on this wheelset that do not have approval. Parts that lack approval can cause damage to the wheelset and are not safe. If you are not sure if a part has approval, speak to us! 

Specific Note on Full Carbon Clinchers - Long Descents

Please see Note 11 E (3) above



14. Fitting clincher, tyres, tapes etc

PLEASE NOTE: SETTING UP OF TUBULAR WHEELS AND TUBELESS WHEELS IS A SPECIALIST MECHANICS TASK AND IS NOT COVERED IN THIS MANUAL.ADVICE ON CONVERTING YOUR "TUBELESS READY" WHEELS FOR TUBELESS USAGE IS GIVEN AT THE END OF THIS SECTION.
 
a) Installing Rim Tape
 
******WE RECOMMEND USE WITH HIGH PRESSURE 13-16mm VINYL RIM TAPES ONLY *******
This is because they give the best coverage to protect the inner tube from the spoke hole – Also they are much thinner then old fashioned cloth rim tape which makes for easier fitting of tyres.
 
The following steps will prepare a rim for the installation of a traditional clincher tyre and tube.
 
Orient the tape so that as you unroll it, the tape will cross the valve hole and cover the hole.


 
b) Installing a Traditional Tyre and Tube
 
The following steps are necessary for proper installation of a traditional tyre and tube on a clincher wheel. Rim tape will need to be installed prior to proceeding with these steps.
 
1. Inflate the inner tube until it begins to take shape.
2. Place the inner tube in the tyre.
3. Insert the valve stem through the hole in the rim.
4. Install the first bead onto the rim (Figure 14). Start at the valve stem.
5. Push the tyre and inner tube over until the inner tube is inside the rim (Figure 15). MAKE SURE YOUR TYRE IS THE CORRECT SIZE FOR THE RIM - ALL OUR WHEELS ARE FOR 700c TYRES ONLY. THE WIDTHS OF TYRES ACCEPTABLE FOR ANY RIM IS SPECIFIED BY THE EU BODY THE ETRTO: ALL OUR WHEELS ARE DESIGNED WITH AN INTERNAL RIM WIDTH OF FROM 13mm-15mm - AND RECOMMENDED TYRE WIDTHS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
 
6. Push the second bead into the rim. Start at the valve stem. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the tyre (Figure 16) when you install the tyre.
7. Push the base of the valve stem up into the tyre so that it is not caught between a tyre bead and the rim (Figure 17).
8. Inflate the tyre to 20-30 psi (1.5-2 atm).
9. Check the inner tube. Push in the sidewall of the tyre slightly and make sure the inner tube is not pinched between the rim hook and the tyre bead. Continue all the way around the rim, on both sides.
10. Check for correct tyre bead engagement in the rim (Figure 18 and 19). Most tyres have a mold line near the bead of the tyre where it engages the rim. All the way around the rim, the distance between the mold line and the top edge of the rim must be even and equal. If the distance is not equal, deflate the tyre and repeat this procedure.
11. Inflate the tyre to the pressure indicated on the side of the tyre.
12. Check for correct tyre bead engagement again.
 

 




14b Notes on Tubeless” tyre use

Some of our wheels are “tubeless ready”. Which wheels are tubeless is clear on the website. IF the wheels are not stated as Tubeless ready do not try to use TUBELESS WITH THEM.

TUBELESS READY means that they can be converted for use with the new generation of road tubeless tyre and sealant systems.

AS there are several different systems and no universal standard system we refer you to the tubeless tyre manufacturer’s website for further details about compatibility and installation and maintenance of tubeless wheels.

 We recommend the use of SCHWLABE ONE TUBELESS TYRES / RIM TAPES / SEALANTS /VALVES with these wheels.

Schwalbe provide very good information and instructions about fitting tubeless tyres to tubeless ready wheels at:

http://www.schwalbe.com/gb/tubeless.html

If you need any further information you can of course contact us at Kinetic-One too.

 


15. Installing and operating a Quick-release
 

This section tells you how to operate (open and close) a traditional wheel quick-release (Figure 28). For correct and safe operation and adjustment of a wheel quick-release, read and follow these instructions carefully.
 
Testing the Attachment: Quick-Check
 
Before each ride, test the attachment of your wheels. If a quick-release does not pass a test, either do the adjustment procedures (and tests) again or have your Shop or dealer repair your bicycle.
 
+ Test A. Lift the bicycle and sharply hit the top of the tyre (Figure 29). The wheel must not come off, be loose, or move from side to side.
 

 

++Test B. Make sure the quick-release lever can not be turned in a circle (Figure 30).
++Test C. When the quick-release is correctly adjusted and in the CLOSE position, the clamp force makes marks on the dropout surfaces.
++Test D. Evaluate the Closing Force of the Quick release: If more than 45 pounds (200 Newton) force is necessary to move the quick-release lever to the CLOSE position, move the lever to the OPEN position and slightly loosen the nut. If less than 12 pounds (53.4 Newton) force is necessary to start to move the lever to the OPEN position, move the lever to the OPEN position and slightly tighten the nut. Do the test again. If necessary, do the adjustment again.
 



Adjustment and Operation
 
These instructions explain how to adjust and operate (open and close) a traditional quick-release. When you move the lever on a quick-release from the OPEN to CLOSE position, the ends of the quick release move inward, clamping the wheel into the fork tips.
 
The security of the clamping depends on two things: the correct motion of the lever and the correct adjustment of the adjustment-nut.
1. Move the lever of the quick-release to the OPEN position (Figure 31, #3) and set the wheel so it fully touches the inner surfaces of the fork ends.
2. With the lever in the adjustment position (Figure 31, #2), tighten the adjustment-nut (Figure 27) until it is slightly tight.
3. Lock the quick-release; with the lever in the palm of your hand, move the lever to the CLOSE position (Figure 31, #1).
 

++Do not turn the lever in a circle to increase the quick-release tension (Figure 32); this will not correctly hold the wheel in its location.
 

 
4. Align the levers so they do not touch a part of the bicycle or an accessory part (such as rack or fenders), and so obstacles in the path of the bicycle can not catch the levers (Figure 33 and 34).
++If necessary, speak to your dealer about a quick-release that closes correctly and does not touch the bicycle.
5. Do the Quick Check above  to make sure the quick-release is correctly adjusted and locked.

 
 
 
 
 
Each year, lubricate the wheel quick-releases. Put several drops of light oil on the parts of the Quick release that move (Figure 35):
++Where the quick-release lever slides on the concave washer.
++Where the quick-release lever turns on the end of the skewer
 

 


16. Using Valve Extenders
 
a) To Install an External Extender
 
1. Turn valve counter clockwise. Give it a firm twist to lock in fully open position which prevents it from vibrating closed while riding (Figure 36).
2. Wrap four thin layers of Teflon plumber’s tape around the end of the valve covering both the narrow threads and a small portion of the wider body.
Warning: Do not cover the air opening at the end of the valve (Figure 37).
3. Screw external extender onto valve by turning clock-wise firmly with fingers. Warning: Do not over tighten as this may damage the extender (Figure 38).
 

 
b)To Install an Inline Extender
 
++Requires a Valve Key
1. Place Valve Key over presta valve core lining up the flats in the key with the flats on the valve core (Figure 39).
2. Turn key counter-clockwise to remove valve core.
3. Screw inline valve extender into valve stem clockwise (Figure 40).
4. Place tool over extender.
5. Tighten by turning clockwise.
6. Screw valve core into extender clockwise.
7. Place key over valve core, lining up flats, and turn clockwise. Note: should be snug. Do not over tighten as it may damage the extender (Figure 41).